First impressions of Hotel Ha(a)ïtza, Pyla sur Mer: Artsy, cozy and characterful

#France #Arcachon #FirstImpressions #Hotels

Abracadabra Verdict: #Magical - an enchanting place, definitely worth a visit.

Ambience: #HighDesign, #Romantic, #GramWorthy #Cozy

Go for: #Ambience, #BeachHoliday, #OutdoorCafe #FineDining, #Casual

“No one is obliged to be a genius but everyone is obliged to participate.”

~Philippe Starck

I came to know of Philippe Starck many years ago – he once designed a set of apartments in Bombay – but I never really got to know him until my recent trip to south-west France. His design aesthetic is very clean but not Scandinavian, almost entirely devoid of superfluous elements, and is almost always eco-friendly. And while he has a passion for the ocean and boats (he owns 7 of varying sizes, and a host of waterfront houses), he very rarely designed boats; until, that is, Steve Jobs personally called him in 2010 with a request to design a new motor yacht for him, which he named Venus. For those interested in boats and the sea, take a look at his latest yachts – Motor Yacht A and Sailing Yacht A. If you identify with his style, you’ll love them!

But I digress! The only reason I bring up Starck’s passion for the ocean is to introduce the restaurant we dined at in Pyla sur Mer – Le Skiff Club – which sits within a hotel he designed, Ha(a)ïtza.

Clockwise from top left: Motor Yacht A, Sailing Yacht A, Philippe Starck, and Venus

Arriving at the hotel for our 9PM reservation, what captured my attention instantly against the pale blue night sky and coniferous flora, was the imposing hotel’s contrasting black and white color scheme – white for the walls, and black for the wooden elements. The construction was unique, in that it would have been perfectly at home on the snowy peaks of the alps as a ski chalet, as on the shore of the Bassin d’Arcachon; in fact, you can almost imagine a delightful apres-ski session going on inside, just like the one in the Ed Sheeran song Perfect. Diagonally across from the hotel is it's outdoor cafe, just a few short steps from the beach. We passed it a few times over the course of a gloriously sunny weekend, and it was packed at most times with holiday-makers enjoying a light meal, or simply a refreshing cocktail or rosé. This is quite a gorgeous hotel, very boutique, high on design and style, and it has a fabulous pool area (which I sadly could't capture on this visit since it was late at night).

As you enter, the wooden theme makes way for stained glass – almost as a palate cleanser – I was transported to a lodge, set in the deserts of Namibia. As I was escorted into the dining room, I felt more at peace, as if I was retiring to the private chambers of a members-only sailing club. I love vintage in most forms, and the three polished wooden skiffs – waiting for champions worthy of them if you will – in the main dining room were truly the centre of attention for me; but as with Philippe Starck designs – they were less in your face, given they were hanging upside down from the ceiling! Other paraphernalia such as straw hats and photos of rowing tournaments and oars dotted the walls up high, putting the finishing touches on the sailing club ambience. The rest of the restaurant retained a clean and elegant feel to it, with small rose-gold lamps with ruffled lampshades in pastel hues and floral prints diffusing serenity and light – the perfect setting to let the food take centre stage. Which I shall do very soon!

The three skiffs - the inspiration for the design aesthetic

At one end of the Grand Salon – which was covered in a pale honey-coloured carpet with a map of the Arcachon basin – is Le Skiff Club’s kitchen. The steel counter and workmanlike efficiency of the team was in full display of all entering guests. The top of the kitchen was lined with a multitude of African masks in white wood on a white wall. I must mention here that Chef Stephane Carrade – the executive chef of Le Skiff Club – was politely greeting every guest who entered and is an absolutely delightful person and his team seemed like they were having fun in the kitchen. Given my time working at Michelin-star restaurants in their kitchens, I know that it is incredibly taxing to run them, let alone fraternize with guests (for reference – Chef Carrade has earned a host of Michelin stars for his other restaurants and one for Le Skiff Club within 6 months!). However, the one thing I’ve learnt thus far is that when the chef and his or her team in the restaurant seem happy – even if they’re very busy – the food is generally magnificent. My expectations of this elegant dining room were now sky-high, and given the genius at the helm, there was not a shadow of a doubt that he and his team would deliver.

As for N and me? Well, to quote Mr. Starck:

“No one is obliged to be a genius, but everyone is obliged to participate.”

And participate in his genius we shall! Read on in the next post for more details.